How to nail the ultimate homemade pizza, from crust to toppings

Photo by Tom McCorkle for The Washington Post; food styling by Lisa Cherkasky for The Washington Post.

Baba Ghanouj Pizza With Pepperoncini, Mint and Chile Oil.

Photo by Tom McCorkle for The Washington Post; food styling by Lisa Cherkasky for The Washington Post.

Whole-Wheat Pizza Dough.

Photo by Tom McCorkle for The Washington Post; food styling by Lisa Cherkasky for The Washington Post.

Roasted Red Pepper Sauce Pizza With Mushrooms and Smoked Mozz.

Photo by Tom McCorkle for The Washington Post; food styling by Lisa Cherkasky for The Washington Post.

Gluten-Free Pizza Dough.

Photo by Tom McCorkle for The Washington Post; food styling by Lisa Cherkasky for The Washington Post.

Caramelized Onion and Fontina Pizza With Crispy Kale.

Photo by Tom McCorkle for The Washington Post; food styling by Lisa Cherkasky for The Washington Post.

Neapolitan-Style Pizza Dough.

Photo by Tom McCorkle for The Washington Post; food styling by Lisa Cherkasky for The Washington Post.

Pepperoni and Potato Pizza.

Whipped Ricotta Pizza With Figs and Walnuts. MUST CREDIT: Photo by Tom McCorkle for The Washington Post; food styling by Lisa Cherkasky for The Washington Post.

Photo by Tom McCorkle for The Washington Post; food styling by Lisa Cherkasky for The Washington Post.

Tomato Pancetta Cheese Pizza.

Pizza.

Poll everyone the world over about their favorite foods, and this cheesy, saucy, crusty combination is likely to land at the top of many lists.

But how many of those people routinely make it at home? Not enough.

We’re here to say that it's worth the effort. After all, you can make your pizza any way you like. You can recruit your family and friends for a fun evening in. And the sense of accomplishment when you pull that gorgeous pie out of the oven: priceless. Heck, even if your pie comes out less than gorgeous, it's PIZZA. You’re gonna eat it.

We understand the obstacles. Getting a pizza is as easy as placing a delivery order or swinging by your favorite neighborhood spot. The dough can be finicky, unpredictable and intimidating, especially for novices. Plus, you have to plan ahead. Then, your kitchen gets hot – even though your home oven doesn't come close to the temperature a restaurant one can reach to achieve crust perfection.

Thankfully, we have learned a few tips and tricks – and recipes – that will set you on your way to success. Sure, shaping dough takes practice, but the right recipe and technique make the job that much easier. We can also help if you would rather your pizza be whole-wheat or even gluten-free. No wood-burning oven? No problem. A super-hot cast-iron skillet and your broiler can do the job.

Once things are getting hot, move quickly. Have your ingredients prepped and ready to go. And don't forget the most important one: your best can-do attitude.

Now let's start slinging some pies.

Crank it up: Heat is crucial. It helps give your crust the right color, texture and rise. So preheat your oven – as hot as it can go – for at least 30 minutes. Cook the pies on a surface that has been preheated, ideally one that will retain and share the heat well, such as a pizza stone or cast-iron skillet. Heating your cast-iron pan on the stove top for a few minutes before baking works well. Just be sure to keep an eye on your pizza when it's in the oven, because at such a high temperature, it can burn quickly.

Give it time: Up to a certain extent, more time means more flavor. The yeast needs time to work, consuming sugars and creating the byproducts that make pizza dough taste so good. Time is also crucial for providing structure and lift. You can extend the process, and therefore the flavor, by allowing dough to rest in the refrigerator for a few days. If your recipe calls for just a few hours (such as with the featured Whole-Wheat Pizza Dough), don't cut it short. Your patience will be rewarded.

Stretch it out: Shaping the dough takes some getting used to. The Neapolitan-Style Pizza Dough uses bread flour, so it's elastic and can stand up to more handling. Stretch it on the counter first and then drape the dough over your clenched fists. A less elastic dough, such as the Whole-Wheat Pizza Dough, requires more care, because it tears easily. For that one, start by enlarging the round with just your fingertips and then gently tug it out. Regardless of your dough, use enough flour to keep it from sticking to your hands or work surface, and frequently rotate.

When it's gluten-free: As bakers with gluten-free expertise know, working with wheat-free pizza dough calls for different techniques and methods. Its consistency is spongy and damp; wet your hands to keep it from sticking. Resting times are in minutes, rather than hours. Because the dough is so wet, it's best to parbake the crust before you add toppings. You can refrigerate the dough for a day, but freeze it only after it has been parbaked.

Top it right: Your standard delivery pizza may be loaded with toppings, but less is more when it comes to your homemade pies. An abundance can lead to a soggy, dense crust that isn't cooked through. Precooking the toppings also cuts back on their moisture and ensures that they’re not still raw by the time the crust is done. You can always add freshly grated cheese, herbs, greens (such as arugula), honey and/or olive oil when the pizza comes out of the oven.

Don't sweat it: It sounds cliche, but the adage "practice makes perfect" is particularly apt when it comes to pizza. Whether you’re a novice or a veteran, things can go wrong: The humidity affects the moisture of your dough, you tear a hole in the dough, your crust flops over when you try to transfer it to a skillet or pizza stone. (Been there!) So what? It takes time to learn your dough and your oven. It's okay. Patch together the dough, call the flopped pie a calzone and eat up. More practice means more pizza, right?

8 to 16 servings (makes enough dough for four 10-inch pizzas)

Name a pizza-making flop, and I’ve probably done it. Dough that sticks to the peel? Check. Toppings that slide off the pie? Check. Huge mess on the pizza stone? Check. Setting off the smoke detector? Check. Check. Check. (Just ask my howling dogs.)

That's not to mention the pizzas that I know just could have tasted better.

Well, you live and learn, and the latest in my long-running pizza education has brought me to this Neapolitan-style dough and a method for cooking it that doesn't require any special equipment or nail-biting anxiety.

The dough comes from food writer Katie Parla's new book, "Food of the Italian South," and it's a beauty. It's Neapolitan-style, because as the official organization of the pizza will tell you, true Neapolitan pies must be cooked in a wood-fired oven, among other requirements. True to Neapolitan pizza's spirit, though, this recipe produces a thick, raised rim and a springy crust, thanks in part to the use of higher-protein bread flour. A long, cold rise in the fridge provides excellent flavor.

While I’ve previously experimented with pizza-making without a stone, I wanted a method that got me a little closer to restaurant pies. Another new cookbook, "Mastering Pizza," by Marc Vetri and David Joachim, held the answer. It uses a cast-iron skillet, preheated on the stove top, and the broiler to try to replicate "the intense bottom and top heat of a domed wood-fired oven," the duo writes. I like to think Parla and Vetri would approve of my mash-up, as the two are friends and "Mastering Pizza" recounts how Parla joined Vetri and Joachim on their pizza research trip in Rome.

Not only does the skillet-broiler strategy contribute to a rip-roaring hot cooking surface, but using a skillet – a cheap piece of kitchen equipment many home cooks already own – also solves a couple of other problems. While Vetri and Joachim suggest sliding the dough round off a floured peel, I found it even easier to immediately transfer it to the skillet after shaping. As far as the shaping itself goes, Parla's combination of patting it out with your fingertips and then draping it over your clenched fists really does work. If you struggle, don't worry. Because of the contained nature of the skillet, even a slightly off-kilter round of dough will bake into a perfect circle. One word of caution: Because the broiler runs so hot, certain toppings, especially soft cheeses such as mozzarella, can overcook, so you might want to add them partway through baking.

A backyard wood-fired oven, or pizza residence in Naples, was always going to be a pipe dream anyway. But excellent, easy homemade pizza? That's my kind of reality.

— Becky Krystal

Recipe note: The dough needs to rest for 30 minutes, then in the back of the refrigerator (so it's as cold as possible) for 20 to 30 hours, and for 2 hours at room temperature before shaping. The dough can be frozen after being shaped into balls following the first rise, for up to 3 months. Defrost overnight in the refrigerator or on the counter for a few hours before proceeding with the second rise.

Adapted from "Food of the Italian South: Recipes for Classic Disappearing, and Lost Dishes," by Katie Parla (Clarkson Potter, 2019); baking method adapted from "Mastering Pizza: The Art and Practice of Handmade Pizza, Focaccia, and Calzone," by Marc Vetri and David Joachim (Ten Speed Press, 2018).

Ingredients

Steps

Combine the flour, yeast and cold water in the bowl of a stand mixer fitted with a dough-hook attachment. Mix on the lowest speed until the dough just comes together and there is no trace of dry ingredients. Remove the bowl from the mixer, cover with plastic wrap and let the dough rest at room temperature for 30 minutes.

Return the bowl to the stand mixer; mix (still with the dough hook) on medium-low speed. Add the salt; mix on medium-low for 7 to 10 minutes, until the dough is smooth and elastic.

Lightly flour your work surface. Turn out the dough there, shaping it into a tight ball. Use some oil to lightly grease a separate mixing bowl; transfer the dough, cover with plastic wrap and refrigerate for at least 20 hours, and up to 30 hours.

Re-flour your work surface. Turn out the chilled dough there, allowing it to gently release from the bowl. Divide it into four equal portions; about 250 grams each.

Lightly grease a baking sheet with oil.

Work with one portion of dough at a time, pulling its corners toward the center so they meet; press lightly so they attach, but do not flatten. The dough will tighten up and take on a rounded shape. Flip over the dough so it is seam-side down. Gently cup the dough in your upturned hands. Carefully move it in circles, taking care to prevent any tears. This will help create a tight, even ball.

Repeat this process with the remaining portions of dough. (At this point, the dough can be sealed in zip-top bags and frozen, for up to 3 months.) Place the dough balls on the baking sheet. Brush them lightly with oil and cover with plastic wrap. Let them rest at room temperature until the dough has nearly doubled in size, about 2 hours.

At least 30 minutes before baking, position a rack 4 to 6 inches from the broiler element of the oven; preheat to 500 degrees or whatever its highest numbered temperature setting is. Have your pizza toppings assembled and ready to go.

Place one dough ball on a well-floured surface, then sprinkle more flour on the dough itself. Starting in the center, work the dough into a small disk by pushing your fingers flat into the dough, leaving the edges untouched. Flip over the disk and continue until you have shaped it to about 8 inches in diameter.

Before you move on to stretching the dough, preheat a 12-inch cast-iron skillet on the stove top over medium heat for 3 to 5 minutes. Open the oven door for 10 seconds if you have an electric oven (this lets some heat escape to make sure the broiler will actually turn on even though the oven has reached its maximum temperature) and then turn on the broiler (to high, if you have a choice).

Drape the dough over the back of your hands and knuckles, being careful not to tear it. Gently rotate the dough, stretching it little by little until it is 10 inches in diameter.

Carefully transfer the dough to the hot skillet, smoothing it into place with your hands or by sliding and shaking the skillet (use a folded towel or oven mitt because it will be very hot). Add your toppings, leaving a 1/2- to 3/4-inch border around the edge. Give the dough an additional 30 seconds to 1 minute to cook; this will help ensure the bottom crust will be crisped.

Use oven mitts to transfer the skillet to the oven. Broil the pizza for a total of 3 to 5 minutes, rotating front to back halfway through, until the crust looks puffed and browned. Don't walk away. A little charring on the crust or toppings is okay, but even a few seconds too much will burn the pizza.

Remove the skillet from the oven, then use tongs to transfer the pizza to a wire rack to cool. After a few minutes, transfer the pizza to a cutting board. Cut it into slices, and serve right away.

2 to 4 servings (makes one 10-inch pie)

Here, the base sauce is a pureed mix of pepperoni, onion, olive oil and garlic; its spiciness is offset by the tender potatoes, nutty Gruyere and mild goat cheese.

MAKE AHEAD: You’ll make more pepperoni sauce than you need for this recipe; it can be cooked, cooled and refrigerated up to 2 weeks in advance. The potatoes can be roasted and refrigerated a day or two in advance.

Sauce recipe adapted from chef Mike Isabella; topping recipe from Washington Post deputy Food/recipe editor Bonnie S. Benwick; dough recipe adapted from "Food of the Italian South: Recipes for Classic Disappearing, and Lost Dishes," by Katie Parla (Clarkson Potter, 2019); baking method adapted from "Mastering Pizza: The Art and Practice of Handmade Pizza, Focaccia, and Calzone," by Marc Vetri and David Joachim (Ten Speed Press, 2018).

Ingredients

Steps

For the sauce: Heat the oil until shimmering in a heavy-bottomed pot over medium heat. Add the onion and garlic; cook for 5 to 7 minutes, stirring often, until golden and fragrant.

Stir in the pepperoni; cook for about 5 minutes, until fragrant and evenly coated, then add the toasted fennel seed and crushed red pepper flakes. Cook for 1 minute, stirring.

Add the tomatoes and their juices, the broth and the bay leaf; stir to incorporate. Once the mixture starts to bubble at the edges, cover and cook for about 30 minutes, stirring occasionally. The pepperoni slices will be soft, with a deeper color. Remove from the heat.

Working in batches as needed, transfer to a food processor or a high-powered blender (including the bay leaf). Puree until smooth. The yield is about 2 1/2 cups.

For the pizza: At least 30 minutes before you bake the pizza, position a rack 4 to 6 inches from the broiler element and preheat the oven to 425 degrees. Lay the potato slices on a rimmed baking sheet; drizzle with oil and season lightly with salt and pepper. Toss to coat, laying them flat again as needed. Roast (upper rack) for 5 to 10 minutes, until just tender when pierced with a sharp knife. Let cool.

Increase the oven temperature to 500 degrees or its highest numbered temperature setting. Have your toppings ready to go.

Place one portion of dough on a well-floured surface, then sprinkle more flour on the dough itself. Starting in the center, work the dough into a small disk by pushing your fingers flat into the dough, leaving the edges untouched. Flip over the disk and continue until you have shaped it to about 8 inches in diameter.

Preheat a 12-inch cast-iron skillet on the stove top over medium heat for 3 to 5 minutes. Open the oven door for 10 seconds if you have an electric oven (this lets some heat escape to make sure the broiler will actually turn on even though the oven has reached its maximum temperature) and then turn on the broiler (to high, if you have a choice).

Drape the dough over the back of your hands and knuckles, being careful not to tear it. Gently rotate the dough, stretching it little by little until it is 10 inches in diameter. Carefully transfer the dough to the skillet, smoothing it into place with your hands or by sliding and shaking the skillet (use a folded towel or oven mitt since it will be very hot).

Carefully transfer the dough to the skillet, smoothing it into place with your hands or by sliding and shaking the skillet (use a folded towel or oven mitt since it will be very hot).

Spread 1/4 to 1/3 cup of the pepperoni sauce (to taste) evenly over the crust, leaving a 1/2- to 3/4-inch border around the edges. Lay the potato slices on the sauce, then sprinkle half the chives on and around them. Cover with the slices of Gruyere, then place big pinches of the goat cheese around the pie.

Give the dough an additional 30 seconds to 1 minute to cook; this will help ensure the bottom of the crust will be crisped.

Use oven mitts to transfer the skillet to the oven. Broil the pizza for 3 to 5 minutes, rotating halfway through, until the crust looks puffed and browned. Don't walk away. A little charring on the crust or toppings is okay, but even a few seconds too much will burn the pizza. Remove the skillet from the oven, then use tongs to transfer the pizza to a wire rack to cool for a few minutes.

Transfer the pizza to a cutting board. Sprinkle with the remaining chives, then cut into slices and serve right away.

NOTE: Toast the fennel seed in a small dry skillet over medium heat, shaking the skillet often to keep the seeds from burning. They will become fragrant and slightly darker in color.

2 to 4 servings (makes one 10-inch pie)

Roasted eggplant dip makes a great base for this cheese-free mixture of fresh and pickled topping ingredients.

We liked this combination atop a Neapolitan-style crust (see related recipe).

Topping recipe from Washington Post Food editor Joe Yonan; dough recipe adapted from "Food of the Italian South: Recipes for Classic Disappearing, and Lost Dishes," by Katie Parla (Clarkson Potter, 2019); baking method adapted from "Mastering Pizza: The Art and Practice of Handmade Pizza, Focaccia, and Calzone," by Marc Vetri and David Joachim (Ten Speed Press, 2018).

Ingredients

Steps

At least 30 minutes before you bake the pizza, position a rack 4 to 6 inches from the broiler element; preheat the oven to its highest numbered temperature setting. Have your toppings ready to go.

Spread the baba ghanouj evenly over the crust, leaving a 1/2- to 3/4-inch border around the edges. Scatter the cherry tomato halves and pepperoncini evenly over the baba ghanouj. Give the dough an additional 30 seconds to 1 minute to cook; this will help ensure the bottom of the crust will be crisped.

Use oven mitts to transfer the skillet to the oven. Broil the pizza for 3 to 4 minutes, rotating halfway through, until the crust looks puffed and browned. Pull it out just long enough to scatter the pistachios (to taste) over the pizza, then return it to the broiler for 30 seconds or so.

Don't walk away. A little charring on the crust or toppings is okay, but even a few seconds too much will burn the pizza. Remove the skillet from the oven, then use tongs to transfer the pizza to a wire rack to cool for a few minutes.

Transfer the pizza to a cutting board. Drizzle with the chile oil, then scatter the mint on top. Cut into slices and serve right away.

2 to 4 servings (makes one 10-inch pie)

The combination of caramelized onions and nutty fontina reminds us of our favorite cheesy onion tarts. Store-bought kale chips add quick color and crunch.

MAKE AHEAD: You will have more caramelized onions than you need for this recipe; they can be cooked, cooled and refrigerated for up to 2 weeks in advance. Bring to room temperature before using here.

Topping recipe from deputy Food/recipe editor Bonnie S. Benwick; dough recipe adapted from "Food of the Italian South: Recipes for Classic Disappearing, and Lost Dishes," by Katie Parla (Clarkson Potter, 2019); baking method adapted from "Mastering Pizza: The Art and Practice of Handmade Pizza, Focaccia, and Calzone," by Marc Vetri and David Joachim (Ten Speed Press, 2018).

Ingredients

Steps

To make the caramelized onions, combine the onions and the water in a heavy-bottomed pot. Cover and cook over medium heat, stirring occasionally and scraping the pot to dislodge any bits, for 1 hour or until caramel golden in color. Sprinkle with the sherry vinegar and sugar, if using; reduce the heat to medium-low and cook for an additional 20 minutes or so, until deeply browned. Let cool.

At least 30 minutes before you bake the pizza, position a rack 4 to 6 inches from the broiler element; preheat the oven to its highest numbered temperature setting. Have your toppings ready to go.

Place the portion of dough on a well-floured surface, then sprinkle more flour on the dough itself. Starting in the center, work the dough into a small disk by pushing your fingers flat into the dough, leaving the edges untouched. Flip over the disk and continue until you have shaped it to about 8 inches in diameter.

Spread 1/2 cup of the caramelized onions evenly over the crust, leaving a 1/2- to 3/4-inch border around the edges. Cover with the slices of fontina.

Give the dough an additional 30 seconds to 1 minute to cook; this will help ensure the bottom of the crust will be crisped.

Use oven mitts to transfer the skillet to the oven. Broil the pizza for 3 to 4 minutes, rotating halfway through, until the crust looks puffed and browned. Pull it out just long enough to scatter the crispy kale chips over the pizza, then return it to the broiler for another 30 seconds or so.

Transfer the pizza to a cutting board. Scatter with shredded Parmigiano-Reggiano cheese, if desired, then cut into slices and serve right away.

6 to 12 servings (makes enough dough for three 10-inch pizzas)

I have made many, many pizzas in my time, in more shapes and forms than I can probably recall off the top of my head. But one with a 100 percent whole-wheat dough? Not once.

After all, I’m perfectly fine getting my whole grains elsewhere. Pizza, a sometimes treat anyway, was not at the top of my list.

But as we put our heads together for our giant pizza package, we knew that plenty of people would want a whole-wheat crust. In addition to the dietary and nutritional benefits, the hearty, nutty flavor that whole-wheat flour imparts is enough to recommend it.

The problem is that the very things that make whole-wheat flour what it is – the inclusion of the wheat bran and germ, as opposed to just the endosperm of "white" flour – can make it problematic when it comes to baking, especially with yeasted breads. The bran, the outermost part of the grain, is sharp, meaning it can hinder rise by cutting into the dough and wreaking havoc on the gluten network you have worked to establish by kneading. The bran is also extremely thirsty, able to absorb several times its weight in water. (These are among the reasons you often find recipes that call for mixing whole-wheat flour in with regular all-purpose or bread flour.)

After several rounds of testing whole-wheat pizza doughs that turned out dense, gritty and lacking in satisfying chew, I turned to Jonathan Bethony, the co-owner and head baker at Washington's Seylou Bakery. Seylou's goods are exclusively whole-grain, and it even hosts a weekly pizza night.

Bethony helped set me down the right path. He emphasized the importance of a wet dough (high hydration, in baker speak), to soak into all the extra fiber in the dough. His dough actually has more water than it does flour (10 percent more). My early recipes were clearly too dry.

Whole-grain dough also "needs a lot of upfront attention," Bethony says. You really have to work to establish the gluten structure. Then, however, you need to treat it delicately after it's risen. Bethony compared the strands of gluten to a spider web, with the bran existing as a kind of weak spot, meaning the dough can't take as much tension without tearing.

Armed with that insight, I set about finding the right recipe and perfecting the technique. A whole-wheat pizza dough from Sally McKenney of the blog Sally's Baking Addiction was the winner. While not as wet as Bethony's dough, McKenney's recipe (about 87 percent as much water as flour) was hydrated enough to get much closer to the texture and chew you expect in a pizza crust.

Seriously, though, it is wet and sticky, and you’re going to think you did something wrong, but you’ve got to – sorry! – stick with it. Try to resist adding more flour as you’re kneading, or your dough will be too dry and gritty. Keep kneading in the stand mixer until the dough has become much more elastic. Follow the cues I’ve included below, and you’ll be fine.

Shape the dough into rounds carefully. Yes, you’ll probably tear it at least once, but pinch it back together and proceed. I had the most success by using my fingertips initially to flatten the dough into a round. Getting the dough up to 10 inches in diameter can be tricky. Try gently stretching it almost as if you were tucking someone in under a blanket. Stretch more from the center than the very edge, so you still get a good crust on the rim. Be sure to rotate the dough frequently.

The cooking starts in a cast-iron skillet on the stove top and finishes under the broiler. That's especially ideal for cooking off some of the dough's extra moisture and beginning to puff the crust. (Because the broiler runs so hot, certain toppings, especially soft cheeses such as mozzarella, can overcook, so you might want to add them partway through baking.)

As fussy as it sounds, the extra care paid off. We were frankly surprised at the chewy texture and yeasty flavor (even though it only rises for about 2 hours) of the whole-wheat crust, so when you, too, are ticking through all your pizza possibilities, keep this one in mind.

— Becky Krystal

Recipe note: The finished dough can be portioned, coated lightly in cooking oil spray or olive oil, sealed in zip-top bags and frozen for up to 3 months. Defrost overnight in the refrigerator and then let it come to room temperature for 30 minutes before shaping and baking.

Dough recipe adapted from Sally McKenney at sallysbakingaddiction.com; baking method adapted from "Mastering Pizza: The Art and Practice of Handmade Pizza, Focaccia, and Calzone," by Marc Vetri and David Joachim (Ten Speed Press, 2018).

Ingredients

Steps

Combine the sugar, yeast, warm water, tablespoon of oil, honey and salt in a stand mixer fitted with a dough-hook attachment. Mix on low speed for 30 seconds. Add all but about 1/3 cup of the whole-wheat flour; mix on low speed until a dough starts to come together.

Increase the speed to medium-low; continue to mix for about 5 minutes. If your dough is looking very wet and almost pourable, add some of the reserved 1/3 cup of flour, a tablespoon or two at a time. Continue to mix, adding more flour as needed, until the dough begins to gather around the dough hook and looks stretchy as it pulls away from the sides of the bowl; this may take as long as 15 minutes. It will not form a ball or pull away from the bowl completely. The dough may look very wet, but all will be well.

To test whether your dough is ready, pinch a small piece of dough away with your fingertips. If it breaks immediately as you stretch it, keep kneading. If it seems elastic and comes away from the rest of the dough in a stretchy, almost translucent sheet, that means the gluten has sufficiently formed.

Lightly grease a separate mixing bowl with oil. Shape the wet, sticky dough into a ball as best you can, then transfer it to the bowl, turning the dough over to coat it on all sides. Cover the bowl tightly with plastic wrap and allow the dough to rise in a warm environment for about 2 hours, or until it has about doubled in size. (A closed microwave where you have just heated some water for a minute or two works well.)

About 90 minutes into the rise, position a rack 4 to 6 inches from the broiler element of the oven; preheat the oven to 500 degrees or whatever its highest numbered temperature setting is. The oven should preheat for at least 30 minutes.

Line a baking sheet with parchment paper, then generously dust it with flour.

Gently deflate the dough to release trapped air. Divide the dough into three portions, about 250 grams each. Roll each portion into a ball and then place them on baking sheet. Loosely cover with lightly greased plastic wrap and let the dough rest for at least 20 minutes, and up to 1 hour.

(After this rest, you may freeze the dough portions for up to 3 months.)

Generously flour your work surface. Transfer one ball of dough there and sprinkle more flour on top of the dough. (If you plan to use all the portions of dough right away, keep them covered.) Use your fingertips to start flattening the dough into a round. Continue to gently stretch the dough until you have a round about 10 inches in diameter, frequently rotating it and flouring the counter or dough as needed so nothing sticks.

Open the oven door for 10 seconds if you have an electric oven (this lets some heat escape to make sure the broiler will actually turn on even though the oven has reached its maximum temperature), and then turn on the broiler (to high, if that is an option). Have your pizza toppings ready to go nearby.

Preheat a 12-inch cast-iron skillet on the stove top, over medium heat, for 3 to 5 minutes. Carefully transfer the dough to the skillet, smoothing it into place with your hands or by sliding and shaking the skillet (use a folded towel or oven mitt since it will be very hot). Allow the dough to start to cook and dry out on bottom (a minute or less; you’ll see it looking less wet and starting to puff).

Add your toppings, leaving a 1/2- to 3/4-inch border around the edges. Brush the edges of the crust with oil, then sprinkle them with the Parmigiano-Reggiano, if using. Give the dough an additional 30 seconds to 1 minute to cook; this will help ensure the bottom of the crust will be crisped.

Use oven mitts to transfer the skillet to the oven. Broil the pizza for 3 to 5 minutes, rotating front to back halfway through, until the crust looks puffed and browned. Don't walk away. A little charring on the crust or toppings is okay, but even a few seconds too much will burn the pizza. Remove the skillet from the oven, then use tongs to transfer the pizza to a wire rack to cool for a few minutes. Transfer the pizza to a cutting board. Cut into slices and serve right away.

2 to 4 servings (makes one 10-inch pie)

We especially liked these toppings with a whole-wheat pizza crust, but feel free to choose a different crust. To add a bit of heat and spice to those toppings, use a hot/spiced honey.

If you are making a gluten-free pie, you can prepare the toppings while the crust parbakes.

Topping recipe from Washington Post deputy Food/recipe editor Bonnie S. Benwick; dough recipe adapted from Sally McKenney at sallysbakingaddiction.com; baking method adapted from "Mastering Pizza: The Art and Practice of Handmade Pizza, Focaccia, and Calzone," by Marc Vetri and David Joachim (Ten Speed Press, 2018).

Ingredients

Steps

Place the ricotta in a mini food processor; with the motor running, drizzle in the 2 tablespoons of oil to form a smooth, whipped consistency. Season lightly with salt and pepper.

At least 30 minutes before you bake the pizza, position a rack 4 to 6 inches from the broiler element; preheat the oven to 500 degrees or its highest numbered temperature setting.

Generously flour your work surface. Transfer the portion of dough there, and sprinkle more flour on top of the dough. (If you plan to use all the portions of dough right away, keep them covered.) Use your fingertips to start flattening the dough into a round. Continue to gently stretch the dough until you have a round about 10 inches in diameter, frequently rotating it and flouring the counter or dough as needed so nothing sticks.

Open the oven door for 10 seconds if you have an electric oven (this lets some heat escape to make sure the broiler will actually turn on even though the oven has reached its maximum temperature) and then turn on the broiler (to high, if that is an option). Have your pizza toppings ready to go nearby.

Allow the dough to start to cook and dry out on the bottom (a minute or less; you’ll see it looking less wet and starting to puff).

Spread the whipped ricotta evenly over the crust, leaving a 1/2- to 3/4-inch border around the edges. Scatter the figs (most cut sides up) evenly over the cheese, then drizzle with a tablespoon of the honey.

Brush the edge of the crust lightly with oil, then sprinkle it with the Parmigiano-Reggiano, as needed. Give the dough an additional 30 seconds to 1 minute to cook; this will help ensure the bottom of the crust will be crisped.

Use oven mitts to transfer the skillet to the oven. Broil the pizza for 3 to 4 minutes, rotating halfway through, until the crust looks puffed and browned. Pull it out just long enough to scatter the walnuts over the pizza, then return it to the broiler for 30 seconds or so.

Transfer the pizza to a cutting board. Drizzle with the remaining tablespoon of honey then top with the arugula. Cut into slices and serve right away, with more honey for drizzling at the table.

Nutrition per serving (based on 4) | 400 calories, 9 g protein, 49 g carbohydrates, 20 g fat, 4 g saturated fat, 10 mg cholesterol, 260 mg sodium, 7 g dietary fiber, 20 g sugar

2 to 4 servings (makes one 10-inch pie)

The Middle Eastern roasted red pepper and walnut spread known as muhammara makes a juicy base for the mix of roasted and pickled toppings. We used a good store-bought brand to speed up the prep for this recipe, but you can make your own in about the time it takes for the shaped dough to rest.

We especially liked these toppings with a whole-wheat pizza crust, but feel free to choose a different crust.

Topping recipe from deputy Food/recipe editor Bonnie S. Benwick; dough recipe adapted from Sally McKenney at sallysbakingaddiction.com; baking method adapted from "Mastering Pizza: The Art and Practice of Handmade Pizza, Focaccia, and Calzone," by Marc Vetri and David Joachim (Ten Speed Press, 2018).

Ingredients

Steps

At least 30 minutes before you bake the pizza, preheat the oven to 425 degrees. Lay the sliced shiitakes on a rimmed baking sheet; drizzle with oil and season lightly with salt and pepper. Toss to coat, laying them flat again as needed. Roast for 5 minutes, until just tender when pierced with a sharp knife. Let cool.

Increase the oven temperature to 500 degrees or its highest numbered temperature setting (for your pizza).

Generously flour your work surface. Transfer one ball of dough there, and sprinkle more flour on top of the dough. (If you plan to use all the portions of dough right away, keep them covered.) Use your fingertips to start flattening the dough into a round. Continue to gently stretch the dough until you have a round about 10 inches in diameter, frequently rotating it and flouring the counter or dough as needed so nothing sticks.

Open the oven door for 10 seconds if you have an electric oven (this lets some heat escape to make sure the broiler will actually turn on even though the oven has reached its maximum temperature) and then turn on the broiler (to high, if that is an option). Have your pizza toppings ready to go nearby.

Allow the dough to just start to cook and dry out on bottom (a minute or less; you’ll see it looking less wet and starting to puff).

Spread the roasted red pepper sauce evenly over the crust, leaving a 1/2- to 3/4-inch border around the edges. Cover with the slices of smoked mozzarella. Scatter the roasted shiitakes and/or grilled onions, if using, over the cheese, then add the banana peppers.

Give the dough an additional 30 seconds to 1 minute to cook; this will help ensure the bottom of the crust will be crisped. Brush the edges lightly with oil, then sprinkle the Parmigiano-Reggiano on them, as needed.

Transfer the pizza to a cutting board. Cut into slices and serve right away.

16 servings (makes enough for four 12-inch pies)

The prep and consistency are different than what is involved in doughs made with wheat flour, but this recipe results in a slightly chewy crust that holds up well to a variety of toppings.

In testing, we added some fresh herbs to the dough, which is optional; we also brushed the edges with oil and sprinkled them with cheese (to enhance color and texture); neither was in the original recipe. It is useful to use a kitchen scale for measuring the main ingredients.

You will need a 12-inch-round, non-perforated pizza pan; we also liked using a pizza stone for the even heat it provides under the pan.

MAKE AHEAD: The dough needs two 30-minute rests, plus a 15-minute rest once it is shaped. The finished dough (after two 30-minute rests) can be refrigerated for up to 1 day. Let it come to a cool room temperature (a 20-minute rest or so) before shaping.

Adapted from "Genuine Pizza: Better Pizza at Home," by Michael Schwartz with Olga Massov (Abrams, May 2019).

Ingredients

Steps

Combine the gluten-free flour blend, powdered milk, baking powder, xanthan gum and salt in the bowl of a stand mixer fitted with a dough-hook attachment. Mix on low speed to incorporate.

Whisk together the water, honey, 2 tablespoons of the oil, the yeast and about 2 cups of the blended flour mixture (from the stand-mixer bowl) in a separate mixing bowl; a few floating lumps are fine. Let it sit at room temperature for about 30 minutes, until bubbly and redolent of yeast.

Add that bubbly mixture back to the stand-mixer bowl; mix on medium-high speed for 4 minutes, to form a dough that is sticky and thick. If you are using the fresh herbs, toss them in at the third minute. Cover the bowl with a clean, damp towel and let the dough rest at room temperature for about 30 minutes.

(At this point, the dough can be covered with greased plastic wrap and refrigerated overnight.)

At least 30 minutes before you are ready to bake, place a pizza stone on the middle oven rack and preheat to 425 degrees.

To make one pizza, use 2 tablespoons of the oil to grease your 12-inch round pizza pan. Scoop one-quarter (about 1 pound/475 grams) of the rested dough onto the pan. Wet your fingers with water; start pushing the dough evenly outward, gently pressing it into a round that almost reaches the edges of the pan, because the dough will spread a bit as it bakes.

Let the pizza dough rest, uncovered, for 15 minutes. This would be a good time for you to assemble any toppings.

Bake (middle rack, pan on the pizza stone) for 8 to 10 minutes, just until the crust is set. Its surface will look opaque.

Remove from the oven and arrange the toppings on the crust. Lightly brush the edges of the crust with oil, then sprinkle them lightly with shredded cheese, if desired. Return to the oven and bake for 10 to 15 minutes, or until the crust is baked through and lightly browned on the bottom.

Cut into slices and serve right away.

4 to 8 servings (makes one 12-inch pie)

This pizza has the look of a classic pie, but it uses provolone cheese instead of mozzarella, plus fresh oregano and chewy bits of pancetta and/or chorizo.

The toppings work especially well with Gluten-Free Pizza Dough crust, but feel free to choose another crust. You can also omit the meat toppings to make this vegetarian.

You will need a 12-inch-round, non-perforated pizza pan; we also liked using a pizza stone for the even heat it provides under the pan.

MAKE AHEAD: The dough needs a 15-minute rest once it is shaped.

Toppings from The Washington Post deputy Food editor Bonnie S. Benwick; dough recipe adapted from "Genuine Pizza: Better Pizza at Home," by Michael Schwartz with Olga Massov (Abrams, May 2019).

Ingredients

Steps

At least 30 minutes before you are ready to bake, place a pizza stone on a rack in the upper third of the oven; preheat to 425 degrees.

Use the 2 tablespoons of oil to grease your 12-inch round pizza pan. Place the gluten-free dough at the center of the pan. Wet your fingers with water; start pushing the dough evenly outward, gently pressing it into a round that almost reaches the edges of the pan, because the dough will spread a bit as it bakes. Wet your fingers again and form a raised edge by pinching the dough edge all the way around. Let the pizza dough rest, uncovered, for 15 minutes.

Bake the crust (upper rack, pan on the pizza stone) for about 10 minutes, or just until it looks set. Its surface will look opaque. Remove from the oven.

Spread the tomato sauce (to taste) on the crust; it should be a thin coat, see-through in spots. Scatter the oregano leaves over the sauce. Brush the edges of the crust with oil, then sprinkle them lightly with some of the shredded Parmigiano-Reggiano. Cover the sauce with the slices of provolone, overlapping is okay. Top with the pancetta and the chorizo, if using. Scatter the remaining Parm on top.

Return to the oven; bake (upper rack) for 10 to 15 minutes, or until the cheese is bubbly and the crust is baked through and lightly browned on the bottom and edges.

Toss the basil leaves on top of the hot pie. Cut into slices and serve right away.

NOTE: To make a quick sauce, mince 1 small clove of garlic, then mash it with a small pinch of kosher salt. Transfer to a bowl; stir in 3/4 cup strained or canned, no-salt-added crushed tomatoes. Taste, and season lightly with sugar and/or more salt, as needed.

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Explainer Crank it up: Give it time: Stretch it out: When it's gluten-free: Top it right: Don't sweat it: Recipe note: Ingredients Steps MAKE AHEAD: Ingredients Steps Ingredients Steps MAKE AHEAD: Ingredients Steps Recipe note: Ingredients Steps Ingredients Steps Ingredients Steps MAKE AHEAD: Ingredients Steps MAKE AHEAD: Ingredients Steps Subscribe to our weekly newsletter, In The Know, to get entertainment news sent straight to your inbox. Follow Us